Pecs. Southern Hungary

Pecs is not a big town, but seems to be as it sprawls across a valley and climbs the surrounding hills.

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It has scrappy areas, but also fine houses and gardens, shopping, malls, etc. Some of the town walls dating from about the year 1000 are standing.

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Tribal people were around this area for thousands of years, but the notable history of the town starts when the Romans displaced the Celts about 2000 years ago. They built their town up into the Capital of the Province Valeria, known for its fine wine plantations. This was an important early Christian center in the first centuries AD. And after the Romans came the endless Balkan wars.

The Ottomans held the area twice, one time for over 150 years. They converted all the churches to Mosques and built more, which the Christians converted to Churches upon their return.

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I think that this may be the only city I have ever been in that was pillaged and burned by the Christians.

Today Pecs is a major University town. And a major tourist attraction, because the old town has somehow survived mostly intact through the centuries of war, including a nearby tank battle of the Red army.

And it is spectacular. Some pictures.

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I have also been enjoying the numerous, well marked hiking trails in the hills, although they are a bit rough for street boots.

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Pecs is said to have a Mediterranean climate. Now, well into the Fall, the weather is chilly but with a warm sun under a bright blue Bemidji sky.

A Pec story. The old Bishop’s summer house is a ruin.

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Which maybe started when the Turks began to use it as a hostel for Dervishers. Presumably the whirling type, which probably ran down the neighborhood.

The prices for everything (Taxis, Hotels, meals) are about one third higher here than I have had over the past few weeks. And my hotel is full of Germans with lots of German TV stations. Maybe these observations correlate.

I have been eating mostly in (good) Italian restaurants having once again had a terrible “Hungarian” dinner in the Tourist area. There is fine dining here. But somehow that is not so attractive when travelling alone.

Some random indoor pictures.  The little café interior is in a place that has been operating since 1758.  The lobby picture is in a fine hotel right downtown.  It has a beautiful and large dining room. I tried to get in for Sunday Brunch and it was fully booked!

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Tomorrow (middle of the night) I waggle up to Budapest and then fly to Munich to rendezvous with CAMarchand who is winging in through Philadelphia. Looking forward to her company travelling with me over the next few weeks.

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