I have enjoyed this week in Mostar. The October temperatures around 80F certainly helped. But also this is such a nice, manageable sized city, only around 60 thousand people.

The town is in a narrow valley up in the mountains, following along on both banks of a clear, fast moving river.

Most visitors swish through Mostar via tour bus, see the historic old bridge and the surrounding old streets, a World Heritage site. One night in a hotel and then onward. I know that because I see them in the breakfast room every morning, a new batch and then they load into the bus.

I stay a fair distance from this area. I can walk to it but it is only full of Touristy things. There are many other reasons to like this town. Let me describe and share some of the things I like, with you.

OK, parts of the town are gritty and sad .. primarily on the west bank. And there are still too many buildings standing ruined from the war. But there is also plenty of nicely restored buildings and new construction.

The east side of the river where I stay is very nice. Wide streets big sidewalks. And people use the streets. Lots of walking and not an overwhelming number of cars.

Some pedestrian only zones and parks.

I was surprised to find that for a Muslim town there are no headscarves at all in this area. And that there are so many Christian things.

In the fine weather people have been out walking everywhere. Young people going to schools, people walking to the numerous shops, coffee cafes, bars and restaurants. Or just hanging out enjoying the weather.

I have been staying in a fine hotel that by our standards costs very little.

Interestingly the hotel is attached to a smallish but glittering shopping Mall with more restaurants and bars. An amazing factoid: the whole of the Mall is closed on Sunday. What a revenue drag. And ..sorry, but they have closed the pool hall since I was here last. Something I was looking forward to .. but so it goes. They are putting a Burger King into that space.

In the basement of the Mall there is the biggest supermarket I have ever seen in the Balkans. With everything. Including this “non Muslim” array.

Yes. I came back here for the weather …. and the food. It is fresh and real and delicious and like everything here in Bosnia, very inexpensive. They eat a lot of meat, much of it grilled. Virtually no fish and surprisingly, no lamb.

The Veal is absolutely amazing. In this little Italian restaurant I had the best Veal Saltimbocca I have ever eaten. Hands down. 11 dollars.

How about this serving of Caprese salad. 7 dollars, with a huge serving of Focaccia included.

I am not often a beer drinker, but in the hot weather and sitting outside whiling away the early evening I have had a few. They have one Croation beer here that I really like. A beer costs a dollar and a quarter. But one day I did go for the big bucket just to try it. 2 dollars.

I have had so many great dinners with an embarrassing amount of good local wine .. dinners that I struggled to finish, for between 13 and 25 dollars, total.

Well enough of that. Yes it has been great fun. After enduring the awful air pollution in Sarajevo being up here in the clean air in the mountains has been a treat, but it is not heaven. These people smoke like chimneys constantly and everywhere. I would hate to be here in bad weather and have to be inside with them. It would be terrible.

A few fun pictures to forget that:

And that’s it. Tomorrow I will travel down to the Croatian coast to spend some weeks eating fish. Next stop Split.

Thanks for coming along.