I always enjoy Zagreb. This is maybe my third time here. It is usually a good flight connection from the USA, and the gateway to the Balkans. Very easy to get from here to Slovenia in the North, Bosnia in the south, and the wonderful Croation islands on the coast.
There are some nice green spaces in the town and good sidewalk walking, but over the years the density of the cars has increased a lot.
The severe damage from the earthquake in 2020 is still shows on many buildings, many still under repair, including the cathedral.
I have been staying at the Sheraton for some days using Zagreb as a base to get over the jet lag. The rooms have been much refurbished since my last visit, but sadly they painted and papered over a lot of the wonderful old woodwork that made the hotel so special.
If you think about visiting here you might look among my blog pages where I previously put down much more information about this fine little city.
The food is fresh and real.
And if you look at these (Euro) prices for wine in a local market you will understand that one of the attractions of visiting Zagreb is all of the great things about Europe are here, at bargain prices.
I must put in a note for one of my heroes, Nickoli Tesla. Many places in the Balkans claim connections to him, but especially Croatia, and I always stop to pay my respects.
I am posting these little notes from Zagreb’s delightfully small and manageable airport, waiting to head down into Bosnia and do some more looking at the remnants of the Ottoman culture in Europe.
People from all over the world visit Santorini. Especially honeymooners. And especially Chinese honeymooners.
Paradoxically, most of the island is a trashy and gritty third- worldish place.
But when the island blew up 3,600 years ago, destroying the Minoan Civilization, the blast left one of the most remarkable and exhilarating venues on the planet.
The rim of the Caldera is lined with small luxury hotels and visitors flock here to pay egregious amounts to live in a cave hanging on a cliff wall over the sea and be pampered. And it is worth it, because the feeling that this enormously beautiful and extraordinary place elicits is indescribable.
If you consider coming, do so in the shoulder season. Summer is wall to wall with tourists and in the winter almost everything is closed. If you want more information here are my notes from a previous visit:
And in this Blog, just some postcard photos from this winter visit with CAMarchand. Of course we visited the Archeological site where they are excavating the Minoan city of Akrotiri destroyed with the destruction of the island. It was a rich trading city with three story houses with running water, flush toilets and extensive interior decorations. Only three percent of the town has been uncovered so far, but enough artifacts found to house in a fine museum in Fira.
The site:
And a few from the Museum:
Even though it is winter here and a lot of things are closed we have had a fine visit. Being pampered in your hotel is a good thing. And even in off season there are good times to be had.
And so that’s it for the winter of 2023.
Actually, I will hang around Cyprus and Greece a few more weeks just for the weather and the food, but probably will not encounter much more to report about.
But I do look forward to future travels and picking these posts back up. Until then, thanks for coming along.
Crete, the largest of the Greek islands, has been inhabited since the most ancient of times. These footprints date from 6 million years ago.
Crete is very hot in the summer, and full of tourists. We are here in January and the tourists are scarce, but many many shops are closed, and many restaurants. The inter-island ferries are not running, and special tours like hiking and food and wine are not running. But we are happy to find that some restaurants and museums are open, and happy to be out of crowds. Plus, the temperature is fine, in the mid 60s.
There are plenty of Neolithic artifacts in the museums to attest to the long inhabitation of the island. But most important is that Crete was the home of Europe’s first advanced civilization: the Minoans. .. during the period from about 5,000 to 4,000 years ago. One of our reasons for coming to Crete is to investigate the remnants of the Minoans, and I will probably post a separate blog about our findings.
The Ancient Minoan World
After the Minoans, Crete was ruled by many civilizations: the Mycenaean Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines, various Arabs, the Venetian Republic and the Ottomans. And so the Island and the cities contain constructions and ruins from all of these civilizations, usually stacked one on top of the other.
Crete has been part of Greece for over a hundred years and therefore is now part of the EU.
CHANIA
Believed by some to be one of the prettiest cities in Greece, Chania circles around the old Venetian harbor with the 8,000 + foot White Mountains behind. The old town right around the harbor is a nice pedestrian only area.
(not my photo)
There are 5,000 year old Minoan ruins within the town. And a fine Museum of Minoan artifacts.
Much of the Venetian and Ottoman defensive walls and harbour constructions are intact, plus various Muslim and Christian churches.
RETHYMNO
This is a surprisingly small town. Less than 40,000 people. And being here in the winter, almost everything is closed. Kind of eerie walking around the streets of empty storefronts. Still enough hotels and restaurants are open, but it is apparent that the town’s economy is dependent on seasonal tourism.
Rethymno has perhaps the best preserved Venetian / Ottoman Fortress on the Island, but it was not open during this time for us to visit the interior.
There is a small Venetian harbour and of course lines of tourist restaurants.
There is a very interesting “old town” with a university, and many narrow streets where real people are living .. in addition to the shops and restaurants.
Plus, Mosques and churches of various denominations all around.
Up on the hill above Rethymno is a 3,500 year old late Minoan grave site with over 200 passage graves carved into a rocky hill. They were only discovered on the 60s. The grave artifacts unearthed were transferred to the historical museum in Heraklion.
HERAKLION
After Chania and Rethymno, Heraklion is a big city. But only in comparison because it actually only has around 150 thousand people. But it seems to not depend so much on tourism, and it is bustling.
Most people we talk to in Crete describe Heraklion, their Capital, as an ugly city. Certainly it is around the old harbor, where a highway has obliterated the entire waterfront. But there are some nice pedestrian only areas in the downtown and the road out to Knossos is very nice.
Like all these cities the past is all jumbled up and piled on to one another.
The comparatively new (only 500 years old) Venetian city walls are still intact, not in very good repair, but being worked on.
Of course we visited the Minoan palace of Knossos. Our guide book said be there as the site opened to avoid the crush of the crowds. Here in the winter, we saw two other people in the entire site.
The ruins are roughly 4,000 years old and a treasure of European and world history. They are remarkable for their age with multi story buildings, running water and flush toilets. The palace sat in a lovely green valley, and the ruins still do.
A model of the palace. Over one thousand rooms.
Just a few photos around the palace.
And just a few from the wonderful Museum in Heraklion that houses the fantastical and everyday artifacts of the Minoans.
One thing that needs to be said is that all over Crete, we were greeted with friendly people, interested in us beyond our credit cards and happy to be helpful.
There are many fine modern restaurants in Heraklion, but what an experience at the Anchorage where Captain John retired and with his wife has run their restaurant on the first floor of their house for 21 years. Five different dishes a day and if you come in the evening, you are offered the ones that are still left to serve. Great food and after all of the complimentary wine and Raki made by Captain John’s family that you must taste .. you have had quite an evening. Tip: the Raki really does not make you feel 10 years younger the next morning as Captain John promised, not for me anyway.
That’s it for our first visit to Crete. I would recommend that if you visit that you come in the shoulder season. Too many things are closed in the winter including almost everything in the south of the Island.
But still we had a fine visit and believe it to be an interesting destination. Besides, we had to visit the Minoans, which I will report on separately.
Now we are off for a “honeymoon” on Santorini before CAMarchand wings back to the USA.
Returned to Izmir so CAMarchand could visit Ephesus, the ancient historic city once on the coast here.
Ephesus was occupied by many different groups since the earliest of times. It was the Roman Capital of Asia Minor, mentioned in the Bible and believed to be the final home of Mary, mother of Jesus.
It was destroyed by an earthquake in about 700AD. It was an important port city throughout its history, but the earthquake that destroyed it moved the seashore miles away, and so the city was never rebuilt. Today they estimate that it is about 20 percent excavated.
The Theater of Ephesus is the largest found among the sites of the ancient world. It would seat 25,000 people. With perfect acoustics you can stand on the stage and snap your fingers and the snap can be heard on the highest row. So the actors could speak their lines and be heard throughout the crowd.
Izmir, the modern city nearby, is the third largest city in Turkey. It was destroyed in the 1920’s and has almost no historic sites. But it is a good base to visit a number of important ones nearby. The city is clean. Has wonderful walking along the bay, warm weather, fish restaurants and two fine Marriott Hotels. I have been here three times and enjoy stopping here.
This previous blog talks more about the city of Izmir, if you are interested:
We are leaving tomorrow for some exciting times: our first visit to the Island of Crete. We will visit three cities and have heaps of tours and museums flagged to visit. I will check in from there.
Istanbul is gigantic ancient city with a truly unbelievably complex history. Today it is probably the most diverse city on the planet with whole communities of differing ethnic peoples. All with their own traditional customs, and food.
Consequently, on this trip, accompanied by the courageous CAMarchand, we have taken wonderful tours of historic sites and had the finest food tour I have ever taken.
I have posted a description of Istanbul from a previous visit and so for an overview of the city you might want to look here:
This is one of my recommended “really should visit” cities. One time. It is culturally fascinating and historically magnificent. It is also so big as to be overwhelming and crowded beyond belief.
I know that it is tedious to page through too many of other people’s vacation photographs, but there are endless ones in this city and I could not help but post a fair number. Hopefully you will find them interesting.
We are heading south now to Izmir and I will check in from there.
Florence. The “must visit” Italian renaissance city of history and art.
A unique destination containing all of the seeds that have become the modern western world.
Certainly, one of my favorite cities. I have been here many times over the decades. Even spent a summer here studying Italian cooking at the culinary Institiute.
Also, if you ask her to see it, CAMarchand has made up a printed booklet of her photos and descriptions of all of the famous Churches of the city.
I recommend everyone I know to come here. Soon. Every time I come back it is harder to visit with the ever-increasing crowds, congestion and upscale shopping replacing real life.
But on the other hand, I never get tired of the Italian food, wine and the Italian character. It is hard to stay out of Italy.
This visit we had an apartment with an OK kitchen strategically located between an excellent local market and a fine supermarket and we shopped for ingredients every morning and cooked every evening.
Not much more to say. Here are a few photos of our climb up the ancient road to the 2,500-year-old Etruscan settlement of Fiesole, which overlooks and predates the Roman settlement of Florence.
We are travelling tomorrow, west to London to see some plays on our way home for the holidays. Will check in from there.
And little. The size of New Jersey with a population of 2 million.
We have worked our way south through wine country to stay a week in their lovely pint-sized capital: Ljubljana. The city of the castle and the dragon.
This is a major tourist city, but it is geared up to handle them. The downtown has the largest pedestrian-only area of any city in Europe. The river that runs through the city is lined on both sides with endless bars and cafes and restaurants.
The whole area is lit up in the evening making it excellent for walking or sitting or dining along the river and enjoying life.
The old town is on a horseshoe bend of the river and so the castle on the hill looms over the city from almost any vantage point.
Some beautiful local buildings.
There are plenty of opportunities for walkers, through the pedestrian areas, along the river and in a large city park. There is even a trail circling the city through the suburbs.
This is a beautiful and lively city and I would recommend it to any visitor.
Beyond the ambiance, the quality of the food and wine is very high. The entire country seems bent on expressing themselves through their cuisine and viniculture using their local ingredients. They have their own breed of pig and the pork products, in particular the charcuterie, are superb.
How about this dish. Trout from the hills. Marinated in Beet Juice. Served over a local soft cheese with beet shavings and trout caviar.
Should you wish to visit Ljubljana, as I hope you will, here is a previous post of mine with much more information about the city.
We are leaving Slovenia tomorrow and travelling over to Florence for a break from hotel living. We have an apartment in the vicinity of two markets so we can cook and stay at home every night.
In the first few centuries that we call CE, Ptuj was a comparatively important Roman Military Stronghold. You could get across the river Drava here and two important roads converged on the crossing. So you could go from Northern Italy further East, or from the alps down to the Balkans or the Adratic coast. At that time the population of the city was maybe 40,000. It was never higher at any later time.
It would probably be easier to list the armies who did not sack the town than those that did.
But from the earliest times the wine produced in the surrounding areas has been exceptional. Plenty of sun, misty heavy condensation in the mornings, steep well drained slopes of Marl soil … combine to produce white wines of surprisingly high alcohol content (13 to 15 %) that retain their upfront fruitiness even when aged. They have white wines here bottled over a hundred years ago. We didn’t taste anything like that, but the aged ones we did try were wonderfully complex with a beautiful mouth feel.
Here we are tasting in a thousand-year-old cellar.
Again, the town is tiny, but with a few interesting buildings and a big castle on the hill. Here are some postcard photos:
We have found the Slovenian countryside to be quiet and very picturesque and we had some fine walks around Ptuj.
And that ends our foray into Slovenian wine country. It has been a nice introduction to some surprisingly good white wines. I would like to come back some time to taste the red wines they produce on the Adriatic south of Trieste.
But now we are going west to their big capital city: Ljubljana for some city living.
Maribor is the second largest city in Slovenia, but you would not believe it. It is small, sitting in a narrow valley on the Drava river and backing directly into the vineyards.
I was here pre- covid, found Slovenia to be a delightful country to visit and so I have returned this time with CAMarchand to take another look. There is a wonderful Unesco recognized train ride down from Vienna to Maribor that I suggest to you. I planned to take it but found that it had stopped for the season before we arrived.
The countryside around Maribor is beautiful.
We have had a fine visit. Nice restaurants. Nice old town. Walks along the river and in their beautiful city park and in the hills around town. A few days is enough though, the town is small. Some photos.
This is wine country. For a start they have the certified oldest vine in the world, somewhere over 400 years old.
The hills around Maribor mainly to the North toward the Austrian border are full of wineries. Mainly very small ones set in villages in the countryside. They are concentrated on making small quantities of excellent quality white wines.
We have been touring and tasting. One day 18 wines. Someone has to do this.
At one winery we sat with the vintner in his family dining room and talked about how he made the wines and tasted them. The amazingly low prices you see in the second picture are in Euros which at the moment is almost equal to dollars.
Tomorrow we are off to the oldest town in Slovenia to see some Roman ruins. It just happens to be in another important Slovenian wine region.
Vienna. On the Danube. Voted by the Economist Intelligence Unit as the most livable city in the world three out of the last five years based on stability, infrastructure, healthcare, culture and entertainments.
For 650 years home of the Habsburg dynasty and the Capital city of their various Empires.
Today a big city of about 3 million people covering a large area. But the Old Town is quite small and manageable.
The city is so rich in attractions because the Habsburgs were inclusive of other cultures, staunch supporters of the arts, and collectors.
There are about 100 museums here, many set up to display articles collected by the royal family over centuries.
We visited one of the “other” museums, the collection of artifacts (mainly statues) from Ephesus, which the Austrians have been excavating for 150 years.
The downtown is monumental. Here are some “postcard” photos to give you an idea.
Some notes on Vienna:
o This is an expensive city. Full of tourists, especially in the summer. Here in October the weather is still warm and the press of the tourists way down.
o The city has the most comprehensive public transport system of any city I know. Buses, trains, light rail, metro system.
o The roast pork in Austria is wonderful. Otherwise I am not a fan of German/Austrian food: pounded breaded and fried meat, sausages, goulash, noodles and dumplings and sauerkraut.
o The first (last) time we were here we toured around the city more. Here are some more comprehensive photos and comments about Vienna: Vienna | Lew’s Walkabout (lewswalkabout.com)
This time we stopped here for CAMarchand (who just joined me for some winter travels) to get over the jet lag. Our plan is to soon leave Vienna and go down through the alps and look around Slovenia.
