SPLIT

Split was to the Emperor Diocletian and the Romans what Taiwan was to Chang Kai-shek and the Kuomintang. In the late 400’s the Western Roman Empire had collapsed to just Italy and complete destruction was inevitable. Diocletian and his retinue moved to Split (within the Eastern Empire) and built a great Palace / Fortress in the harbor just south of Salona. Think four city blocks.

Today a world heritage site, and center of Split, a large city with a population around 300,000. Although the palace area has a distinct museum quality it is a lively town center with a large market and plenty of local people going about their lives.

This is, of course a very popular tourist destination. The big ferries come in and out of the harbor continuously going up and down the coast and to the offshore islands.

My friendly morning coffee concocter tells me never to come here in the summer when thousands of tourists make it impossible to walk in the narrow lanes.

Kastela

The area called Kastela is along the coast between Split and Trigor.

It has that name because a line of small towns were fortified in the 1400’s to protect against raids by the Ottomans. I went out to take a look but didn’t find much except some good immersion into the real Croatian coast.

Zadar

A very old city. To write its history it would be the entire history of this part of the world. Two guide books told me to give it a miss, and were right. There are a few historic churches there but they can be seen in an hour and a half. The city has been demolished so many times it is not so interesting today.

I did see the biggest sailboat I have ever seen. Note the small man on the dock.

Which reminds me to relate that there are boats of all sizes everywhere along the coast. Boat trips of all kinds are on offer. Charter sailing is big. There is a National Park near Zadar with 150 islands and protected sailing. There are many islands all along the coast with small towns to visit.

Other

Split is decorated for Christmas and full of families with children in the early evenings giving it a wonderful ambiance.

On Saturday I am climbing up into the park and around the stone houses in the old harbor and come back to the city and it is full with people walking and taking drinks, coffee and lunch.

On Sunday, walking back from and thinking about Salona. it is some kind of holy day and this historic church from three eras, which I come to see is busy and overflowing.

I should mention my apartment, in a Family “Palace” built in the 1300’s. It is a bit of a museum itself.

The apartment is in the walls of the old Peristil, which I look into out of my windows. The Emperor’s quarters were just behind.

He came out onto a balcony over this square to allow the populace to worship him as a god, son of Jupiter. On Sunday columns of singing priests paraded around town and through the Peristil.    So it goes.

 

Spurious comments.

• I get all my laundry done on two occasions for 7 dollars each time. Living on the road this is a major good thing.
• The fish market has little restaurants that serve up the seafood fresh from the sea.
• Styrofoam cups of hot spiced wine are 2 dollars each and should be avoided although they are delicious and comforting on chilly walks home from dinner.
• Split never stops eating, drinking coffee and smoking cigarettes.

 

 

By bus is the way you travel on this coast.  I have been exploring travelling south and made it down to Split. I think that of all the places I have visited this fall scouting the Balkans, this area has been the most interesting.

TROGIR

From where I am standing here in Marjan Park, in Split, looking North up the coast, the gap between the island Ciovo on the left and the mainland narrows, and in that gap in around 300 BC the Greeks established Trigir.

Occupied over the years by everyone, today a World Heritage site.

SALONA

This was the Roman city just to the North of Split. I had a hard time finding the site although it sprawls over maybe 30 acres. During Roman times it had a population of up to 60,000.   Today, mined for stone, parts cleared for farming, and overgrown with Brambles only the largest of the ruins can be found. But that is still plenty. The Aqueduct, the Forum. Some walls and gates. Bases of the temples and the baths.

The city survived into the 700’s. Although by then it was occupied by the Byzantines and much of it reconfigured. The Colosseum stood intact into the 1700’s but the Venetians destroyed it for some reason having to do with a war with the Turks.

Today its ruin sits neglected between the highway and a cement plant.

I prowl around Salona for a long time and see no one else. There is no visitor’s center, no entrance fees, only two signs of explanation. Just the stones, inhabited by escargot and maybe ghosts. In one of the many many rubble piles I assemble in three minutes (and leave behind) these pottery fragments, which I would think would be treasures in some museum. I do pocket a small piece of a child’s toy as a momento.

 

 

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It is early December and the Alps are getting cold, so I have been heading south for warmer weather.

I plan to visit a few towns along the Adriatic coast, and I have started at the top of the food chain: Opatija.

About the same size as Bemidji in permanent population this is a popular tourist destination that reeks of old money.

The town only dates from the late 1800’s when the railroads opened up this coast, but it was a preferred destination for the Austrian imperial family and nobility. The emperor Franz Joseph used to spent several months here in the winter. He funded the walk along the sea and it is named after him.

The wars and political disruptions of the past century led to some crumbling and decay as the city passed through the hands of the Italians, the Yugoslavians and now Croatia. But the Grand hotels and Villas are here for the Yachties and the privileged to come and be pampered.

The mountains rise so quickly from the sea that although there are a few side streets the town is basically just the two sides of the road.

The big city of Rijeka is just across the bay.

This road continues through town after town along the coast. The further away from Opatija the more “real” and to me interesting they become.

If one had a car there are many hotels grand and humble and all between up and down the coast. There are many marinas and water related tourist trips on offer: fishing, visiting islands, submarines, etc.

There are a number of Casinos. Wellness centers and Spas offer massages, treatments and procedures. But there is not much here that interests me. Before the coast was safe enough to populate there were a number of fortified towns in the mountains nearby, first mentioned in the 1400’s. I climb up to visit them. There are the remains of a number of ancient foot paths, very elaborate with set stones, but now eroded such that they are very rough.

And very steep. It is hard to imagine people using them daily carrying trade goods and produce and commodities up and down these trails.

The towns I find are ruins with a few modern houses around and one nice church from around 1500. But I am rewarded with some good views and photo ops.

Since Cathy and I were in Vienna I have been staying in small hotels, living in monkish cloisters, and so I check myself into a 5 star hotel to get the real experience of Opatija. With so little else to say, let me share a few snaps around my hotel, which has been enjoyable.

It is right on the water in the heart of town.

I have a corner room and the morning and evening views are lovely.

There are plenty of venues to hang out in and relax.

I never made it to the coffee/sweet lounge, or the Spa. And only came through the Lounge Bar to marvel at this little man who plays away endlessly.

There are things on the breakfast buffet that I usually would not associate with breakfast fare.

And in case one might have overlooked the idea of champagne at breakfast this agent of the devil tours around the dining room to tempt the unwary onto the road to perdition.

One morning at about 9AM, walking in Volosko I encounter some of his graduates. 

I have a very long bus ride south down the coast tomorrow. If the bus is comfortable at all it should be very interesting.

Ljubljana. Capital of Slovenia. I have been here a week and am still not sure I can pronounce it.

Just south of the Alps the city lies in a valley of rivers among foothills. There is an old fortification on a hilltop that looms over the city.

The river horseshoes around the fortress hill and the old town lines both sides of the river and spreads out like a fan with the fortress as the center of the radius.

The hilltop the fortress sits on is not really dramatic like say Edinburgh crowning its glacier scoured volcanic plug. These hills are what in Kentucky we would call knobs. But it is visible from almost any location and lends a special air to the old town.

If you have been reading some of these blogs you can write most of the town history yourself. Warring, partly settled tribes. Celts, etc. Then a Roman town, Emona, notable for the number of houses with central heating, running water and a city wide sewer system. But Attila and his Huns demolished it around 450.

Situated on a trade route, all of the regional characters: the Slovenes, the Franks, the Magyars, the Slavs, the French, the Italians, the Habsburgs, etc. etc. came to take over or sack the city. The fortress on the hill belonged to everyone.

Continuing with my point that that this condition of war is continuous in the Balkan’s, since 1800 Ljubljana has been within 10 different states. They have a nice city museum to explain all this, and quoting from the city museum: “a person born here in 1913 has seen two emperors, four kings and four presidents.

The old town itself is a whopping success. Beautifully restored, plenty of shops and people everywhere day and night.

There are some rough areas with graffiti issues, but in general this is a very clean city.

Weighing in at around 300 thousand persons, the town is only about the size of say Louisville and is not only a manageable size but English is spoken everywhere. Almost all of the music in the public places is in English. The city is pricy, but nothing like Munich or Vienna, and the quality is very good. So, overall I would recommend a visit if you are planning a European itinerary. This city is, for comparison, much more interesting and enjoyable than say Prague.

There are countless restaurants. Bars line the river and they fill up at sundown.

During the day (this time of year) the bars and many little shops are selling hot wine. For about a dollar fifty a glass. I should have but could not bring myself to try one. There is a lot of cigarette smoking, but all of it outdoors.

This weekend they turned on the seasonal lights and in the early evening the city was full of families with children of all ages giving the evenings a special ambiance.

Some interesting (to me) observations:

In all of the cities I have been visiting on this trip they have been extending their pedestrian only areas and working on their nearby streets so that the amount of space for cars is greatly reduced and the sidewalks widened and bike lanes installed. I think that this really contributes to the attractiveness of the areas for people to visit. And I wish we could do more of this in our American towns.

If you live in the pedestrian areas and have a car you have a controller that will raise and lower blocking posts to allow access.

Also, this town has these nifty little electric taxis that will pick you up anywhere and take you anywhere in the downtown. A free service.

There is plenty of walking along the rivers and in large parks on the knobs.

There is also a walking trail that runs for over 20 miles completely around the city. It actually follows the route of a barbed wire fence that the Italian army constructed to imprison the city and cut down resistance activities during WWII.

There is a great central market with every kind of fast food stall imaginable and if I did not love going out to dinner so much I would eat there every day. I had a few dinners in the old town and the food and wines were excellent. In the places I tried the chefs were following either Italian training or French training, the stuff I cook, and somehow not really exotic enough for my mood.

Then I fell into the gravity well of a Serbian restaurant. These guys didn’t follow fancy culinary training, they grilled meats of all kinds and served it up with potato and beans and good wines. Rough and ready and perfect for me.

A chilling image, from the history museum.  Chilling to think of the suffering involved in this enterprise.But thank goodness the image could also be titled “Hubris before the fall”.

And on a lighter note was pleased and somewhat surprised to learn that on a Slovenian picnic the standard fare is a bottle of wine … … each !!

Leaving early tomorrow, heading south into Croatia and to the Adriatic coast.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Travelled very comfortably south from Vienna on the intercity (IC) train. A picturesque trip through the mountains. Stopped just over the border in Maribor, second largest city in Slovenia.

Besides three and a half hours on the train being enough, I wanted to stop here to pay homage to the oldest producing grapevine in the world, reckoned to be around 450 years old.

My guide book says that the town is “embraced in its wine growing hills”. I would have said it was squeezed between the Drava river and the foothills. Here in the early morning river mist.

But it is certainly true that the city stops and the vines begin.

In a few hours I have left Beer country and re-entered wine country.

My guide at the regional museum told me that this is one of the oldest wine growing regions in the world and that the Romans learned wine making here and took the knowledge to France, Spain, etc. The ones I tried are pretty good. Characteristically light and bright with fruit.

Surprisingly small, the city has a nice old town.

There are some very large restaurants in the old town, quiet now off season, but I expect full of tourists setting outdoors in the summer.

Unfortunately, like many towns in the world today, while the mall is crowded with shoppers

the downtown is not prospering and has too many shuttered store fronts and gritty avenues. But I am sure that summer sunshine and good low cost food and wine would gloss over much of this.

The old town is full of students, (all) night and day, providing a rollicking, lively ambiance.

They have some nice buildings,

A good regional museum in the old castle,

And a beautiful city park.

I have written more than once this fall about the turbulent and bloody history of the Balkans. Mostly about ancient armies clashing in the distant past. Surely Maribor had those, siege by the Turks, etc. etc. But this town has also endured ongoing tragedies just over the past 100 years.

This was a predominantly German city up until WWI.

But during that war the Austrian/Germans rounded up Slovenes and put them into detention. The resentment that built up prompted the Slovenes after the war to “persuade” the German population to leave the city.

Then in 1941 the Nazis swept in. I took this picture from the spot on the old bridge where Hitler stood and declared that the region would once again be German.

So throughout WWII Slovenes were rounded up for slave labor and death camps. The Nazis converted the heavy industry here into armament manufacture, and so the Allies targeted it with repeated air attacks. Maribor has the distinction of being the most bombed city in Yugoslavia.

After the war ended the Yugoslav army rounded up the collaborators, the “home guard” and their families and deposited them into mass graves around the city.

And so I really hope for those rollicking students in the old town to bring about a better future for this place.

Tomorrow I continue south to the “pint sized capital of Slovenia”: Ljubljana.

 

 

Vienna is a gorgeous city with the wealth of centuries on display.

The home of Empires: the Babenberg, the Habsburgs, the Holy Roman Empire, the Austrian Empire and the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

This is the wealthiest city in the world and every year called the first or second world city with the best quality of life. From the humblest to the richest of goods for sale in the city all are top quality and top price.

The traditional European home of music and art.

The entire old town is now a UNESCO world heritage site.

Saint Steven’s Cathedral, parts dating from the 1200’s, is the symbol of the city.

Magnificent buildings, palaces, churches are literally on every corner and I could fill many blogs with pictures of them.

 

If you visit here please be sure to tour the Hofburg Castle, home to the Habsburg family for 600 years.

There are countless restaurants here, of course. Here are some fun food shots taken while walking around.  I could have shot hundreds.

A Vienna story. When the second Turkish siege of Vienna was lifted by the Polish army in 1687, the Turks left behind hundreds of bags of coffee. The enterprising Viennese used them to set up the first coffee houses. Their patrons did not like the grounds in their coffee typical of the Turkish brew and so they invented filter coffee.

Gyor was the Celtic city of Arrabona when it fell to the Romans. Three rivers meet here, a historically strategic position in the Carpathian plains. Looking at a map you can see all of the old roads radiating out from the city. The town has been fought over and occupied by practically everyone. The Celts, Romans, Magyars, Turks, Habsburgs. Napoleon’s troops retreating from Russia blew up the remaining bits of the fortifications.

I love the rolling sound of the name of the region: Northern Transdanubia.

There is a nice, not too large and not too prosperous pedestrian only old town. With a variety of buildings dating over the past thousand years.

We journeyed to visit a working Benedictine Abbey that has occupied a high point of ground for those thousand years. A stopover point in the first crusade. Now a UNESCO world heritage site.

The 400,000 volume library was remarkable, but the Basilica newly renovated.

Back in Gyor on a rainy Sunday we visited churches in the old town and I photographed their surprisingly dis-similar interiors.

This is our last day in Hungary. We take the train up to Vienna Austria tomorrow.

Returned to Budapest. This time for a leisurely stay in the company of CAMarchand.

 

 

It would have been easy to enjoy many cities with the weather we have had this week: sunshine and the 60’s. But Budapest is a grand and delightful city and we have been out every day enjoying it.

 

 

The city straddles the Danube, the longest river in the EC and a traditional border of the Roman Empire.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The town of Buda sits on a narrow, low hill on the West side.

 

 

 

 

The castle of the Magyar’s, dating from the 1200s broods up over Pest, across the river.

The castle stands on the ruins of a number of earlier fortifications. The Habsburgs were in residence for about 150 years. The entire town has been repeatedly destroyed by the Turks, the Christians, and most recently when the Germans, on Hitler’s orders, fought to the last with the Red army. Walking around Buda I wonder if the ground itself contains a cacophony of bits of the DNA from the blood of so many armies from Asia, the Middle East and Europe. Likewise the people.

Today it has been (once again) rebuilt/restored and it is beautiful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Across the river the old town of Pest has a fine area of pedestrian only streets. And here in a warm November there are plenty of people about.

The Americans have established fast food beach-heads in Pest.

But mostly there are many many restaurants serving what seems to me to be the same “traditional Hungarian dishes”. Although I suppose the tourists like this, I have learned to avoid them, and frequent the plentiful Italian and French restaurants.

There is a nice central market to enjoy a stroll through.

And a truly excellent National History Museum.

Some more “Grand Budapest” photos;

A “lest we forget” section;

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And some unusually styled photos to enjoy.

Bonus:  A (repeat) travel tip. Hotel laundry charges are one of the biggest rip-offs in the world   Our hotel charges $6.36 to launder one pair of shorts. Having built up a load of laundry needing processing, (all darks so one load), we locate a nearby laundry using “maps”. There the proprietor runs the washer and drier while we walk about .. and charges us $5.50 for the entire load. This included a pair of Cathy jeans, which in the hotel would have cost $11.02 !!!

P.S. If you carry a bar of laundry soap you can always push the laundry along a few days until you are in some place long enough to deal with it.

Enjoying Munich with Cathy.  This is one of her favorite cities.

Munich is, of course, glorious. The old capital of Bavaria, backed up to the Alps, and not particularly historic unless you are studying the medieval salt industry and trade.

At the moment the warm weather is lingering into mid-fall, and the city is full of people.

 

At noon the tourists (us too) fill the square in front of the Rathous (city hall) to watch the ancient glockenspiel turn.

There are of course plenty of grand and official looking buildings.

But also plenty of just great views and interesting little places around the old town.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Munich is the kind of place one could stay in for an extended period. Great markets with the highest quality foodstuffs of every kind. A wonderful downtown city park (the English garden) to walk in. You would have to leave if you needed any kind of clothing, etc. Because Germany is expensive!

A lot of the tourist activities revolve around Munich having (I am told) the best beer in the world. And (I know) they are in a tie with southern China for the best pork in the world.

You can enjoy both together (the serving suggestion) practically everywhere. Sitting outdoors in the sun, in the beer hall. Everywhere.

I have been here on and off over 45 years. And there are restaurants I go back to, just because.

And I particularly enjoy the Technology Museum, 5 stories of technological history to warm an old engineer’s heart. They have cars and planes and boats (a U Boat with the side cut away so you can see all the interior), and I cannot stay away from the hall of the steam engines that ran the industrial revolution. They have a Watt engine built from the original drawings.

The museum is in way better shape today than it was in 1945.  In fact it seems impossible they saved anything.

Here is the Marionplatz in 1945.  One of the many places where you can (like London) see the new buildings that filled in the bombed gaps.

Munich actually survived the Allied power’s bombing pretty well. As opposed to say Dresden where the capability of humans to create a “fire storm” (plasma loose on the earth) was tested. Who can understand the first half of the 1900’s and our self-inflicted destruction of the leadership of western civilization in the world.

Munich, this prosperous, beautiful, welcoming city was the home of the Nazi party. The first death camp was constructed just down the road. So it goes.

Some church pictures. Just because.

 

Pecs is not a big town, but seems to be as it sprawls across a valley and climbs the surrounding hills.

It has scrappy areas, but also fine houses and gardens, shopping, malls, etc. Some of the town walls dating from about the year 1000 are standing.

Tribal people were around this area for thousands of years, but the notable history of the town starts when the Romans displaced the Celts about 2000 years ago. They built their town up into the Capital of the Province Valeria, known for its fine wine plantations. This was an important early Christian center in the first centuries AD. And after the Romans came the endless Balkan wars.

The Ottomans held the area twice, one time for over 150 years. They converted all the churches to Mosques and built more, which the Christians converted to Churches upon their return.

I think that this may be the only city I have ever been in that was pillaged and burned by the Christians.

Today Pecs is a major University town. And a major tourist attraction, because the old town has somehow survived mostly intact through the centuries of war, including a nearby tank battle of the Red army.

And it is spectacular. Some pictures.

I have also been enjoying the numerous, well marked hiking trails in the hills, although they are a bit rough for street boots.

Pecs is said to have a Mediterranean climate. Now, well into the Fall, the weather is chilly but with a warm sun under a bright blue Bemidji sky.

A Pec story. The old Bishop’s summer house is a ruin.

Which maybe started when the Turks began to use it as a hostel for Dervishers. Presumably the whirling type, which probably ran down the neighborhood.

The prices for everything (Taxis, Hotels, meals) are about one third higher here than I have had over the past few weeks. And my hotel is full of Germans with lots of German TV stations. Maybe these observations correlate.

I have been eating mostly in (good) Italian restaurants having once again had a terrible “Hungarian” dinner in the Tourist area. There is fine dining here. But somehow that is not so attractive when travelling alone.

Some random indoor pictures.  The little café interior is in a place that has been operating since 1758.  The lobby picture is in a fine hotel right downtown.  It has a beautiful and large dining room. I tried to get in for Sunday Brunch and it was fully booked!

 

Tomorrow (middle of the night) I waggle up to Budapest and then fly to Munich to rendezvous with CAMarchand who is winging in through Philadelphia. Looking forward to her company travelling with me over the next few weeks.